you've made the first step in providing yourself with a great
golf training aid that enhances your yard and will stay green
all year long.
the same base preparation as laying brick pavers, you can
install your putting green and be on your way to playing more
golf in your yard, and less working in it.
green kit comes complete with the following:
- 3 cups
T-handle pole with red flag
written installation instructions
video installation instructions
the materials needed for this project are common household
and hand shovel
hose with adjustable spray nozzle
knife and new blades
also need the following materials, which you should be able
to find at your local home improvement store, tool equipment
rental store, sandblasting supply store, and rock quarry.
flashing (used only if you have make a seam)
slag infill, has to be 30/35 medium; or 40/60 fine grit
(the finer, the better)
minus, unwashed, crushed stone sub-base material
plate compactor, gas tamp, or ride-on roller
drying concrete mix
You can find the coal slag infill at a sandblasting
has to be "medium" or "fine" grit
or it will not sweep properly into the fibers of the green.
The formula to determine how much coal slag needed:
square feet X 3.5 = number of pounds of coal slag required
You will need 26 100-pound bags of infill for a 24x30
foot green. Cost is about $8 per 100-pound bag. We recommend
using black coal slag. If black is not available, copper
or nickel slag works well.
crushed stone sub-base material can be found a local rock
quarry or gravel pit.
has to be 1/4" minus, or less, and has to be unwashed.
This will ensure proper compaction. Other common names
are: granite crush and run, manufactured sand, screenings,
disintegrated granite, crushed fines, or stone dust. The
formula to determine how much sub-base you'll need:
every 12 x 6 foot area, or every 72 square feet, you need
1 ton or 1 yard
gives a 4 inch compacted depth, which is the minimum you
You will need 4 tons for a 12x24 foot green, 5 tons for
a 12x30, and so on. Cost is about $10-15 per ton delivered.
plate compactor, sometimes called a gas tamp or one-ton
ride-on roller, is used to compact the sub-base. Ride-on
rollers are more efficient so if your base is 500 square
feet or larger, we recommend one because it will compact
the base solidly and quickly. Cost to rent a plate compactor
is about $45 and about $80 for a ride-on roller.
weed barrier stabilizes the sub-base so it does not sink
into the ground. It also helps keep weeds from growing
up through the putting green.
turf. You want to unroll the turf and give it time to
flatten out after being packaged. If the temperature is
40¼F or warmer, you can lay the turf on a hard surface,
like a driveway, and let it warm in the sun for about
some bags of infill on one end and pull from the opposite
end to stretch out small wrinkles, creases, or bubbles.
Then place some bags on the opposite end to keep tension
on the green. The turf can warm while you are preparing
your yard for your new putting green.
If you have not done so already, determine the size
of putting green you want by laying out an extension cord
in the general area and shape you desire. Turf comes in widths
of 12 feet, so think in multiples of 12 when designing your
green, or refer to your brochure of diagrams for sample designs.
The length can be cut to any desired length. Pitch and chip
golf balls to the area to make sure the green is big enough
for your yard.
take a can of spray paint and mark the entire perimeter of
the shape of your design. Use this mark as a reference point
where your weed barrier and sub-base material will be placed.
have two options when preparing the sub-base.
1, Remove the sod:
you would a more natural look to your green that blends
into and with your surrounding grass, you will want to remove
all the existing sod. This means your putting green will
stop where your natural grass starts.
2, Scalp the grass down to the ground:
Using a weed eater, scalp the grass down to the ground and
then lay out the weed barrier over the area where the green
will be placed. This is the ideal base preparation if you
would like to surround your green with curbing, a retaining
wall, mulches, flower/plant beds, etc. Be creative!
Distribute the sub-base material evenly, except in
areas where you desire extra depth, contour, slopes, or breaks.
With the rake, rake the material until have contoured the
surface to match your design. Use a shovel to move large amounts
of material to desired areas and the flat side of the rake
to smooth out any rough areas. There must be a slight slope
to the sub-base to ensure proper water drainage occurs off
the top of the green and not through it. Drainage through
the green will eventually deteriorate the packed sub-base
leading to a host of problems later.
Compact the sub-base. This
is one of the most important steps in the entire installation
process. You have to compact the sub-base completely
and properly or else it will settle. If it settles, irregularities
will form in the surface of your putting green. Irregularities
adversely affect the roll of your ball when putting.
garden hose, wet the sub-base thoroughly, but do not saturate
it. Now compact the sub-base several times the length and
width of the area to ensure a solid compaction. If there are
any small bumps, ridges, or irregular dips remaining, smooth
them out with the rake or shovel. You will notice low spots
or areas that are not as smooth as the surrounding sub-base.
You will need to add material to even out these areas. You
want a consistently smooth and solid surface.
that the green will fit like a glove to the surface you put
it on. If you have too much slope, the ball will roll very
fast and may roll right off the green.
guideline: for every 10 to 12 feet in length of
sub-base, drop the slope 1 inch.
putter and golf ball and putt on the surface. The ball will
break the same on the sub-base, as it will on your finished
your sub-base is a minimum of 4 inches when compaction is
Install the cups. Determine where you want your cups
located. To do this, arrange them on the sub-base where you
think you'd like them. Move them around until you are satisfied
with their placement. Mark the final cup locations by pressing
firmly on each cup and rotating it. This will make a small
indentation that you can use as a reference point.
Use a small hand shovel to dig a hole that is at least 2 inches
bigger around than the cup. Cups are 6 inches tall so unless
you have made a sub-base thicker than 4 inches, you may have
to cut into the weed barrier. The cups should stick out ¼
inch above the top of the sub-base. Fill the hole with loose
dirt if you have cut down too far.
drying concrete mix powder around the entire perimeter of
the cup. Use your hand shovel to pack down the mix. Leave
about 3/4 to 1/2 inch of the cup exposed. Add water to the
mix until saturated. Then add sub-base material around the
exposed part of the cup and compact it again until you have
solid foundation. Run the compactor directly over the cup.
This automatically makes the cup flush with the surrounding
sub-base. Repeat for each hole and cup.
Placing loose change in the cups makes them easier to
find with a metal detector once you lay the turf over the
Make sure the sub-base is exactly how you want it. Now is
the time to add or take away slopes and contours. You must
completely compact the sub-base after any change you make.
Once the putting green is laid down and infill added, it is
extremely difficult to adjust the sub-base.
Seaming two rolls together.
If you order a green that is 12 feet wide, you can omit
steps 8 - 11.
need black seaming tape strips and commercial strength outdoor
adhesive (both of which are provided with your kit) and an
1/8 inch notched trowel or similar tool to spread the adhesive,
and tin flashing.
notice that the fibers of the putting green turf are slanted
and have a slight grain running the length of the roll. Make
sure the grain of each roll is running in the same direction.
turf back up on the core and move it to the sub-base. Place
the green on the edge of the sub-base and roll it out. Notice
the black strip running the length of each roll.
roll over where the seam will come together so the black backing
is facing up. Use a utility knife to cut between the first
and second row of stitching along the length of the roll.
Be sure not to cut into the stitching. Do this for only one
of the rolls where the seam will be joined. (Cutting between
the stitching provides you with a guideline and removes the
back strip off one roll.) This will give you a tight fit and
a perfect seam when the rolls are joined together.
Overlap the rolls about 2 inches the entire length
at the seam so the roll with the black strip still attached,
is on top.
the tin flashing under the bottom roll that is being overlapped.
The flashing provides a solid cutting surface so you do not
disturb the sub-base.
place bags of infill every 5 feet on both sides the length
of the seam. The weight of the bags helps keep the turf in
place during the seaming process. Start at one end of the
seam and cut the top overlapped roll of turf by following
the edge of the bottom roll with your knife. Continue along
the full length of the seam.
your blades every ten feet of cutting. You want to cut the
turf, not rip through it.
seam is cut, join the two pieces together to ensure a tight
fit before gluing the rolls together.
Lay each piece of turf over at the seam. Position the black
seaming strips on the sub-base where the seam will come together,
making sure there are equal amounts of black stripping on
each side of the seam. Spread the adhesive over the entire
surface of the black strip. Make sure the adhesive gets no
thicker than 1/8 inch. Allow 15 minutes for the adhesive to
set before seaming.
Join the rolls together. Starting at one end of one roll,
lay the turf onto the adhesive and seaming tape the full length
of the seam. Lay the second roll over as you join the two
rolls together. Press the seam in place as you go, applying
pressure to ensure good contact of the turf backing to the
adhesive. When the entire seam has been joined, walk several
times over the area. Allow at least a 1 hour cure time before
infilling the green.
The putting green should fit well on the sub-base you've made
for it. If the turf does not fit flush with the edge of the
sub-base, you may have to remove some of the sub-base material
with a shovel.
there are no creases in the turf. It is OK if there are small
creases or bubbles because the weight of the infill material
will smooth these out.
Before spreading the infill material, you have to separate
the fibers of the putting green.
push broom to brush against the grain of the fibers of the
turf. Brushing also helps stretch out any small creases or
bubbles. Always brush against the grain and do it several
times to get the fibers standing vertical.
Infill the green. Fill the drop spreader with infill material
and spread it across the top of the green. Do not apply too
much at any one time without brushing it into the fibers.
It is very important that the putting green and infill material
stay dry during this entire process.
guideline: Use 50 pounds of infill over an entire 24X30
area between brushings and always work against the grain
of the fibers.
procedure must be repeated until the green is completely full.
Fill the green past the tips of fibers so that you end up
walking on the infill. Once the green is completely over-filled,
brush off the excess working across the grain or the width
of the green. This will help level out the amount of infill
across the putting green surface and will give 1/16 or 1/32
inch of the fiber exposed.
Cut out the holes for the cups. Locate the holes by pressing
the turf with your hand until you feel the hole, or by using
the metal detector.
cut an X inside the hole and then cut tightly, and carefully,
around the inside edge of the cup. Use a fresh blade for each
cup. After holes are cut, use scissors to trim the loose fibers.
you're ready to start practicing all those tricky shots on
your All Pro Putting Green!
If you have any questions about the installation
process or about finding materials, even on weekends, call
are available 7 days a week to assist you.
All Pro Golfscapes & Lawns
2265 Holcomb Rd.
Fort Oglethorpe, GA 30742